The attractive Old Gold evergreen juniper was bred in 1958. A plant with a compact and spreading crown has become widespread in landscape design. Good frost resistance allows you to cultivate ephedra in different climatic conditions.
Juniper Old Gold: bright shrub for the garden
Brief information about the variety
- Colour: needles of a golden hue in autumn, in summer - yellow-green.
- Height: 1.5-2 m.
- Crown diameter: 1m.
- Growing regions: plant with good frost resistance, so it can be cultivated everywhere.
- Landing feature: Distance between bushes - 0.5-2 m, in a row - 1.5-2 m.
- Immunity: High frost resistance, good resistance to diseases and pests.
- Life span: no information.
General characteristics
The full name is Old Gold juniper pfitzeriana (juniperus media x pfitzeriana old gold). The description of the plant includes several basic parameters:
- the crown is round, flattened, with spreading branches;
- height varies from 1.5 to 2 m, circumference - 1 m;
- Annual growth is 5 cm in length and 15 cm in spread;
- twigs are thin, straight at the tips, slightly curved;
- the root system is deep, weakly branched, when landing on knocked-down soil - superficial;
- needles of a golden hue in autumn, in summer - light green, prickly, triangular, densely cover the shoots and trunk;
- round-shaped green cones, after ripening become blue-black with thick waxy bloom, conditionally edible.
A plant with good frost resistance is excellent for cultivation in the south, in the Central, Middle lane. When planting in the Urals, North and Siberia, young specimens need to be insulated.
Growing rules
The type of seedling affects the timing of planting:
- with open roots planted at the end of April, at the beginning of May and in the last days of August;
- Plants purchased in a container or together with an earthen clod can be planted at any time of the year, except in winter.
The choice of planting material
It is better to choose plants 2-3 years old. They already have a strong root system and a well-developed aerial part, so they take root better after transplanting to a new place.
When choosing, you should pay attention not only to age, but also to the general appearance:
- uneven color - the presence of yellow, red or black spots on the shoots of needles, as well as the massive shedding of needles indicates an unhealthy condition;
- the bark should be of a uniform brown tone, without cracks, breaks, nodules and tubercles;
- if you get a bush with open roots, examine them for disease damage - rot speaks of infection;
- healthy plants with an earthy clod do not contain traces of mold and acidification on the surface;
- you should not take specimens in which the root collar has nodules and is covered with bloom - they will develop slowly or will not take root at all in a new place.
It is better to buy planting material in a specialized store or nursery, where it is kept in optimal comfortable conditions. In addition, in such outlets you can purchase a real plant with all varietal characteristics.
Site and soil preparation
Old Gold grows well in areas with access to sunlight. Therefore, it would be preferable to land on the south side of the house, at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the wall, because in shading, it loses its decorative effect and develops slowly.
You can plant ephedra on any soil - loamy, sandy loam or nutritious chernozem. The main condition is good drainage, high moisture and breathability.
The plant does not like stagnant moisture
Therefore, when planting on loam, 2-3 buckets of sand or vermiculite are introduced, a couple of buckets of clay are added on sandy loam. Additionally, the site is sprinkled with humus and peat - 20 kg each. The number of components is calculated for an area of 1m².
The plant loves slightly acidified soil, therefore, the deoxidation procedure is not carried out in the garden if its level does not exceed 7 units.
It grows poorly on waterlogged soil - the place must be deep, with the passage of groundwater at least 1.5 m.
The best neighbors on the site are undersized shrubs, rhododendrons, azaleas. It is not recommended to plant near fruit, ornamental-deciduous crops with a large and spreading crown. They will create shading unnecessary for the needles.
Landing technique
Juniper average Old Gold loves space, when plantings thicken, there is competition between the bushes for moisture and nutrients, as a result of which they grow slowly and look faded.
The optimal distance for group disembarkation is from 0.5 to 2 m, depending on the size. The distance between the rows is 1.5-2 m.
Planting pits are harvested two weeks before the planned move to the site. Their dimensions should be 2-3 times greater than the length and width of the earthen coma, approximately - 70x90 cm. Drainage is laid at the bottom of each hole to prevent moisture stagnation. Crushed stone, pebbles or brick chips are used.
Then, up to half is filled with a nutritious soil mixture of peat, sand and sod, mixed in a ratio of 2: 1: 1.
The roots are lowered without shaking off the earthen coma, then they are sprinkled with the remaining fertile soil, the soil around the trunk is trampled, moistened at the rate of a bucket of water per plant. To avoid drying out the soil and roots, mulch with peat or pine sawdust.
Basic care
In care, this plant is no different from other varieties of juniper.
In the first two weeks, it must be protected from sunlight at midday to protect the delicate needles from burning. For shelter, burlap or agrofiber is used.
Watering
Watering should be moderate and frequent, especially in the year of planting.
The first moistening is carried out after 10 days, all subsequent ones - after the soil has dried to a depth of 4-5 cm.
Usually the frequency depends on the season - in dry summers, at least 4-5 are required for young, and 3 - for adult specimens.
The culture reacts positively to periodic irrigation of the crown - after sprinkling, the above-ground part saturated with moisture reveals all decorativeness. Also, this procedure is necessary to protect against the invasion of harmful insects.
It is carried out at least once a week and only in the evening.
Loosening and mulching
The loosening procedure is necessary to maintain the moisture and breathability of the soil. It is carried out the next day after watering. Additionally weed between rows, remove weeds. Then a layer of peat or coniferous sawdust mulch is added.
Mulching has two advantages - it prevents the growth of unnecessary vegetation and protects the root system and soil from drying out.
Fertilizer
To accelerate growth, increase decorativeness and immunity against diseases, this ephedra should be fed.
The first food is carried out in the second year of life in early spring. On 1 m² nitroammofosk is added 30-40 g or bushes are spilled with Kemira-universal (40 g per 10 l of water).
Fertilizers increase the immunity of juniper
They are additionally fed with a mineral composition, in the fall, a month before the onset of stable cold weather. A solution of 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 10 l of water is used. Such fertilization increases resistance to winter cold and resistance to diseases and parasites.
Juniper Old Gold responds positively to foliar nutrition, which is carried out 2-3 times per season. The crown is irrigated with drugs in a chelated form: Brexil Combi, Quantum, or Aminomax-N.
Pruning
This variety does not need a shaping haircut, since it forms a spreading crown with a chaotic arrangement of branches.
Every spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, which protects against harmful insects, diseases and preserves the decorative effect of the tree.
Cut out all branches damaged by frost, diseases and pests, as well as dried and broken off parts.
At the 10th year of life, you can carry out a slight rejuvenation - cut the branches of the current year by 2-3 cm in length.
To avoid infection, a sterile, sharp object is used for the procedure - a pruner or scissors. After trimming, the trimmed places are irrigated with a solution of copper sulfate.
Shelter for the winter
Adult specimens have good frost resistance, so they do not need insulation before wintering. A month before the onset of cold weather, the near-trunk zone is spud with peat or coniferous sawdust.
Young bushes up to three years old need to be insulated, especially if they grow in regions with cool climates and long harsh winters:
- first mulch with sawdust or peat soil;
- then the aerial part is covered with spruce branches, burlap or agrofibre.
Breathable insulation material will provide access to oxygen and prevent the ephedra from drying out.
Breeding features
This variety of juniper can be propagated in two ways, both are considered efficient and not time consuming.
Cuttings
Cuttings are harvested in mid-spring. An adult plant (5-6 years old) without signs of disease is suitable for cutting.
The apical shoots are cut off along with a piece of old bark. The lower part is freed from needles and shoots, sprayed with any stimulator of root formation - Epin or Kornevin, planted in a moist substrate of peat and sand (1: 1).
For successful rooting, it is deepened by 3-4 cm at an angle of 40-45 °. Then it is poured with settled water, covered with foil or glass and placed in a warm place with diffused daylight.
The optimum temperature is 20-23 ° C, humidity is 65-70%.
Further care for the plantings consists in daily ventilation, irrigation after the soil dries out.
If everything is done correctly, new buds will appear on the cuttings in 2-3 months. Then they remove the shelter, continue to water, remove weeds and gently loosen the soil.
A transplant to an open area is carried out one and a half years after germination in early autumn. The planting scheme is the same as when planting purchased plants.
Layers
Low-growing shrubs can be propagated using layering.
The procedure for rooting shoots is carried out in spring or autumn. They choose the thickest and longest stem on the plant, next to it they dig a trench 4-5 cm deep.
The branch is freed from needles and shoots, deepened, fixed with brackets, sprinkled with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1), watered.
With poor care, the plant can get sick.
With autumn breeding, a month before the onset of cold weather, an additional layer of soil is poured - 5-6 cm to prevent freezing.
In the spring, when the mother bush starts growing, you can start digging the cutting and separating it. The twig is divided into segments so that each has several roots and buds, seated separately.
Diseases and pests
Juniper Old Gold is capable of producing phytoncides that repel many pests.
However, when planting infected seedlings, not following the planting scheme and basic care requirements, the plant can be damaged by various infections and parasites.
- Rust. Reddish or orange spots in the form of growths on the surface of the branches are a sign of the appearance of a fungus. If not treated, then in a short time it will turn yellow and die. First, the damaged organs are removed to healthy tissue, then the crown is irrigated with Skor, Hom or Ridomil Gold. The same funds are used for preventive treatment in early spring and late autumn.
- Drying of shoots. Mass yellowing and darkening of needles, twigs, followed by drying out is caused by a fungal infection. First, the apical part is damaged, after which the fungus spreads to the entire crown of the juniper. At an early stage, it is necessary to remove the damaged parts, then spray it twice with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture with an interval of a week.
- Schütte. Another fungal sore that leads to ephedra baldness and death. Signs - massive yellowing and shedding of needles in early summer, towards the end of the season, numerous black or brown dots are noticed on the surface of shoots and needles. At an advanced stage, the plant is removed from the site and burned. At the beginning of the development of the sore, the bush can be saved - cut out all damaged parts, treat the crown with Ridomil Gold or Skor twice with a frequency of 5 days.
- Spider mite. This insect loves to feast on the juice of young needles, buds, shoots, as a result of which the affected parts turn yellow and dry. Signs of appearance are the presence of a small cobweb in the nodes, on the eyes and needles. Acaricides are used to fight - Akttelik, Aktar.
- Aphid. Another pest that quickly destroys the young parts of the plant is to suck the juices from the needles, buds, and young growth. With a slight lesion, you can use folk remedies - ash and soap solution, infusion of tobacco, garlic or hot pepper. At an advanced stage, the crown and the soil around it are sprayed with Engio or Fitoverm.
- The miner moth causes considerable harm. Infected bushes grow slowly, the needles turn yellow, crumble, rotting begins in the nodal parts. You can exterminate the parasite with the help of Decis.
- An effective remedy Karbofos will help from the scale insects that suck the juices from the young organs of the ephedra.
Application in garden design
Due to its unpretentious care, the ability to grow on almost any type of soil and look bright throughout the year, this ephedra has gained great popularity in landscape design:
- it is used in single and group plantings, combining with low-growing, decorative deciduous plants and heather;
- it looks beautiful in the center of the flower bed, framed by low-growing bright-blooming crops;
- the plant is planted along alleys, grown for decoration of city parks, rockeries, rock gardens and mixborders;
- readily used for the design of multi-level coniferous compositions from tall, medium-sized and ground cover conifers.
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Reviews
The juniper variety Old Gold is loved by many gardeners and leave only positive reviews about it: it is not afraid of gas pollution, does not need a shaping haircut, it tolerates wintering well, so care for it is minimal.
Many people note that the ephedra grows well near any ornamental vegetation, reproduces easily, and young plants retain all the characteristics of the mother bush.